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Here's a snapshot of the various products and services we offer, along with our current price list. While we will soon create an online shop, allowing you to purchase products directly, for now you can order by emailing us at [email protected]
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VW/Audi 1.8T, VR5, VR6, and 1.9TDI engine + trans mount kits
£600
Our original and understandably most popular part, this is a full 4-mount kit to allow multiple VAG engine and transmission options to be directly bolted to the ZZW30 Mk3 MR2 chassis.
Made from 316 stainless steel and billet aluminium, this kit is available to fit the 1.8 20V Turbo engine (zero cutting required, a pure bolt-in swap), 1.9TDI engine (again, bolt in swap), and the VR5 and VR6 engines inc R32 (modified bulkhead needed for better access, but otherwise bolt-in).
This mounts the engine in such a way the engines are far easier to work on than both the factory Toyota engine or any of the other common engine swaps for these cars. All parts easily accessible and serviceable, cylinder head, manifolds, transmission, etc, all removable while leaving engine in-situ.
The manual transmission uses the factory Toyota shift cables and gear lever mechanism, making for a very easy and effective swap with a much nicer and faster gearchange than the factory Toyota shift, without any need for an aftermarket 'quick shift' kit.
For VR5/6 engines you can also mount the DQ250 DSG transmission from Mk4 Golf R32s a Mk1 TT 3.2s, but this also requires custom electronics and so on to control the gearbox, as you'd imagine.
£600
Our original and understandably most popular part, this is a full 4-mount kit to allow multiple VAG engine and transmission options to be directly bolted to the ZZW30 Mk3 MR2 chassis.
Made from 316 stainless steel and billet aluminium, this kit is available to fit the 1.8 20V Turbo engine (zero cutting required, a pure bolt-in swap), 1.9TDI engine (again, bolt in swap), and the VR5 and VR6 engines inc R32 (modified bulkhead needed for better access, but otherwise bolt-in).
This mounts the engine in such a way the engines are far easier to work on than both the factory Toyota engine or any of the other common engine swaps for these cars. All parts easily accessible and serviceable, cylinder head, manifolds, transmission, etc, all removable while leaving engine in-situ.
The manual transmission uses the factory Toyota shift cables and gear lever mechanism, making for a very easy and effective swap with a much nicer and faster gearchange than the factory Toyota shift, without any need for an aftermarket 'quick shift' kit.
For VR5/6 engines you can also mount the DQ250 DSG transmission from Mk4 Golf R32s a Mk1 TT 3.2s, but this also requires custom electronics and so on to control the gearbox, as you'd imagine.
Custom Motorsport-spec VW/Audi to Toyota driveshafts
£800
Our driveshafts allow all our VW/Audi tranmission conversion options to link directly to the factory Toyota rear hubs with no modification needed, and are well proven already on cars making over 600 horsepower.
Made by a top UK motorsport driveshaft manufacturer to our specs, and uses very strong OEM VW/Audi inner CVs (Audi TT 225) and Toyota Rav4 outer CVs (much larger and stronger than stock MR2, but identical fitment), they are super strong heat treated shafts, and thanks to OEM off the shelf CVs, they are easy and cheap to purchase and fit the CVs yourself.
These also bolt on without unbolting suspension components, allowing for a very fast fitment and removal, unlike the factory ones which require various suspension components to be removed to fit and remove the OE shafts.
(PLEASE NOTE- Due to manufacturing cost increases, rather than increase our price, we now supply the driveshafts only, not the CVs, which means you also have a much lower shipping cost for these items, and you can purchase the CVs locally for £15-20 each. We can advise on exactly which parts to use, and they are very easy to fit also).
£800
Our driveshafts allow all our VW/Audi tranmission conversion options to link directly to the factory Toyota rear hubs with no modification needed, and are well proven already on cars making over 600 horsepower.
Made by a top UK motorsport driveshaft manufacturer to our specs, and uses very strong OEM VW/Audi inner CVs (Audi TT 225) and Toyota Rav4 outer CVs (much larger and stronger than stock MR2, but identical fitment), they are super strong heat treated shafts, and thanks to OEM off the shelf CVs, they are easy and cheap to purchase and fit the CVs yourself.
These also bolt on without unbolting suspension components, allowing for a very fast fitment and removal, unlike the factory ones which require various suspension components to be removed to fit and remove the OE shafts.
(PLEASE NOTE- Due to manufacturing cost increases, rather than increase our price, we now supply the driveshafts only, not the CVs, which means you also have a much lower shipping cost for these items, and you can purchase the CVs locally for £15-20 each. We can advise on exactly which parts to use, and they are very easy to fit also).
Air-water chargecooler inc mounting bracket, boost pipes, and header tank
£800
This consists of a large air-water chargecooler proven on many 800bhp+ cars worldwide, a custom alloy mounting bracket that fits to the OEM Toyota gearbox mount, all boost pipes to fit from the factory K04 turbo and factory inlet manifold, a alloy boost pipe with flange to bolt the factory MAP sensor to, and a coolant header tank with cap that you can mount directly on top of the chargecooler for easy filling and bleeding.
As with almost all turbo setups on these cars, battery relocation to the front is needed to create space, but this is VERY simple on these cars, and improves both weight distribution and access, so we consider it a plus point.
This is a kit that genuinely works and gives low intake temperatures, unlike so many of the useless setups commonly seen on these and other mid-engine cars.
(Note- We do not supply the water pump/lines/rad as so many people have their own options for this, but we are happy to advise and show you what most purchase for this use)
£800
This consists of a large air-water chargecooler proven on many 800bhp+ cars worldwide, a custom alloy mounting bracket that fits to the OEM Toyota gearbox mount, all boost pipes to fit from the factory K04 turbo and factory inlet manifold, a alloy boost pipe with flange to bolt the factory MAP sensor to, and a coolant header tank with cap that you can mount directly on top of the chargecooler for easy filling and bleeding.
As with almost all turbo setups on these cars, battery relocation to the front is needed to create space, but this is VERY simple on these cars, and improves both weight distribution and access, so we consider it a plus point.
This is a kit that genuinely works and gives low intake temperatures, unlike so many of the useless setups commonly seen on these and other mid-engine cars.
(Note- We do not supply the water pump/lines/rad as so many people have their own options for this, but we are happy to advise and show you what most purchase for this use)
1.8T swap 3inch (76mm) 316 stainless steel turbo back exhaust system
£800-£1070
Designed for the factory K04 turbo, this is using 316 true stainless steel unlike the poorer quality 304 of most aftermarket exhausts which still rust over time, and features a flex pipe, straight through silencer, and an option of either a bumper exit tailpipe (which is very popular as it looks fantastic) or a sleeper style under the bumper angled exit tailpipe.
This system is high flowing enough for big power (500bhp+ if required) yet quiet enough to be fine as a daily driver and also pass track day noise regulations.
The price is £800 for the main system, then you have a choice of 3x tailpipes, which you can purchase 1, 2,or all 3. These tailpipes are all totally interchangeable and are v-band fitment.
We have the 'sleeper' style cat-less exhaust that exits at an angle under the bumper for £50
We have the ever popular bumper exit tailpipe for £50
And last but not least we have a 400cell catalytic converter for emission testing purposes, which exits in the same position as the 'sleeper' tailpipe, and costs £170
£800-£1070
Designed for the factory K04 turbo, this is using 316 true stainless steel unlike the poorer quality 304 of most aftermarket exhausts which still rust over time, and features a flex pipe, straight through silencer, and an option of either a bumper exit tailpipe (which is very popular as it looks fantastic) or a sleeper style under the bumper angled exit tailpipe.
This system is high flowing enough for big power (500bhp+ if required) yet quiet enough to be fine as a daily driver and also pass track day noise regulations.
The price is £800 for the main system, then you have a choice of 3x tailpipes, which you can purchase 1, 2,or all 3. These tailpipes are all totally interchangeable and are v-band fitment.
We have the 'sleeper' style cat-less exhaust that exits at an angle under the bumper for £50
We have the ever popular bumper exit tailpipe for £50
And last but not least we have a 400cell catalytic converter for emission testing purposes, which exits in the same position as the 'sleeper' tailpipe, and costs £170
Drive-by-wire throttle conversion pedal adapter bracket
£40
This swap replaces the factory Toyota cable throttle with a much more sophisticated DBW throttle from a VW/Audi, and this adapter plate allows it to bolt up directly to the MR2 chassis in place of the stock pedal.
£40
This swap replaces the factory Toyota cable throttle with a much more sophisticated DBW throttle from a VW/Audi, and this adapter plate allows it to bolt up directly to the MR2 chassis in place of the stock pedal.
1.8T Coolant pipe swap components
£150
While the factory MR2 cooling system is incredibly efficient, to make it work with a 1.8T needs a few small but clever changes, and that's what this kit allows to happen, making for a very easy and effective swap.
£150
While the factory MR2 cooling system is incredibly efficient, to make it work with a 1.8T needs a few small but clever changes, and that's what this kit allows to happen, making for a very easy and effective swap.
VW/Audi engine swap fuel system components
£60
The factory Toyota fuel system is a non-return system, this allows you to convert it to a return system and includes the correct length fuel feed and return line to suit the factory VW/Audi fuel rails.
£60
The factory Toyota fuel system is a non-return system, this allows you to convert it to a return system and includes the correct length fuel feed and return line to suit the factory VW/Audi fuel rails.
Wire reinforced silcone cold air intake, inc K&N filter
£350
A big issue for MR2s and mid-engine cars in general is them sucking huge amounts of hot air due to air filter position, made worse by the fact the factory side ducts don't actually force any air in to the bay at all, despite how they look (tested and proven!). Our solution, which mounts the air filter and MAF sensor outside the engine bay for true ambient air, and has a 3in pipe going all the way to the turbocharger inlet on a 1.8T swap.
This intake is made from flexible wire reinforced silicone, identical to how many turbocharged race cars have always had their intakes, and makes for a cost effective solution. See below if you want a stainless steel version.
£350
A big issue for MR2s and mid-engine cars in general is them sucking huge amounts of hot air due to air filter position, made worse by the fact the factory side ducts don't actually force any air in to the bay at all, despite how they look (tested and proven!). Our solution, which mounts the air filter and MAF sensor outside the engine bay for true ambient air, and has a 3in pipe going all the way to the turbocharger inlet on a 1.8T swap.
This intake is made from flexible wire reinforced silicone, identical to how many turbocharged race cars have always had their intakes, and makes for a cost effective solution. See below if you want a stainless steel version.
Trigger wheel kit inc new crankshaft damper
£200
A vital part of making these engine conversion work in the car like it was fitted to the MR2 from the factory, is this trigger wheel kit. This consists of a 316 stainless steel sensor bracket, brand new crank damper with custom trigger wheel and alternator belt to suit.
£200
A vital part of making these engine conversion work in the car like it was fitted to the MR2 from the factory, is this trigger wheel kit. This consists of a 316 stainless steel sensor bracket, brand new crank damper with custom trigger wheel and alternator belt to suit.
Custom 1.8T and VR5/6 to Mk3 MR2 adapter loom and throttle pedal loom
£450
The downfall of so many engine conversions is so many factory components no longer work properly, but that is not the case with our swaps! Our swaps keep everything fully operational, the entire dashboard, OBD2, all ABS and PAS functions, check engine light, and more. No add on boxes are needed to trick the car in to functioning properly, as with our adapter room the factory VW/Audi ECU will to plug in to the factory MR2 body/chassis loom and the car will operate as standard.
£450
The downfall of so many engine conversions is so many factory components no longer work properly, but that is not the case with our swaps! Our swaps keep everything fully operational, the entire dashboard, OBD2, all ABS and PAS functions, check engine light, and more. No add on boxes are needed to trick the car in to functioning properly, as with our adapter room the factory VW/Audi ECU will to plug in to the factory MR2 body/chassis loom and the car will operate as standard.
Alternator/Starter/Fusebox power wire for 1.8T and VR5/6 swapped MR2s
£30
This is a small but VERY useful addition to our range. This is a 3 way flexible silicone power cable, made to connect directly the rear fuse box, the starter motor, and the alternator, completing the power circuit without needing to make anything custom or adapt factory 1.8T or MR2 parts which are often old and aren't a direct fit.
£30
This is a small but VERY useful addition to our range. This is a 3 way flexible silicone power cable, made to connect directly the rear fuse box, the starter motor, and the alternator, completing the power circuit without needing to make anything custom or adapt factory 1.8T or MR2 parts which are often old and aren't a direct fit.
De-Immobilised and remapped 1.8T BAM-spec ECU
£250
To run a 1.8T engine on the factory VW/Audi ECU in the non-factory vehicle you need it de-immobilised, and while you're at it you may as well increase the power a little (Likely 260-270bhp and similar torque) with a 'Stage1' remap, intended for otherwise standard BAM-spec engines.
£250
To run a 1.8T engine on the factory VW/Audi ECU in the non-factory vehicle you need it de-immobilised, and while you're at it you may as well increase the power a little (Likely 260-270bhp and similar torque) with a 'Stage1' remap, intended for otherwise standard BAM-spec engines.
Baffled 1.8T swap sump-
£300
While the standard 1.8T alloy sump is a nice design and the engine has a windage tray as standard, for particularly low cars, or for cars used hard on track, we have a couple of other options.
For cars that are particularly low we can offer a shallower than factory sump with a steel bottom, and for track cars we can supply a modified version of the factory alloy sump, complete with baffled and one way trap doors to keep the oil by the pickup even during high-G cornering, and also includes a thick aluminium bash plate welded to the bottom for added protection.
£300
While the standard 1.8T alloy sump is a nice design and the engine has a windage tray as standard, for particularly low cars, or for cars used hard on track, we have a couple of other options.
For cars that are particularly low we can offer a shallower than factory sump with a steel bottom, and for track cars we can supply a modified version of the factory alloy sump, complete with baffled and one way trap doors to keep the oil by the pickup even during high-G cornering, and also includes a thick aluminium bash plate welded to the bottom for added protection.
Race-spec rear subframe to suit all Mk3 MR2s
£850-£1500
While the Mk3 MR2 is a relatively rust-free car, the rear subframes are very susceptible to corrosion, and needing to replace them is relatively common.
Another issue with these subframes is they are made of very thin metal and are somewhat flexible when used hard, especially with large power increases and much grippier than factory tyres.
Any subframe flex will cause the steering geometry to change as 4 of the 6 rear arms are mounted to the subframe, which is generally the cause for any traction and handling issues people have, including "Bump steer" and many instability issues under hard acceleration.
While many spend a great deal of time and effort with relatively ineffective braces and other modifications to try and solve this, our solution to both of these factors is our own design rear subframe, which is a direct replacement for the OEM item, but is massively stronger, fantastic looking, and some would say "over-engineered".
This subframe is proven to solve any handling and stability issues by preventing the geometry from changing from the fantastic factory setup by eliminating flex.
We have TWO versions available, the same design, weight, and strength, but two different materials.
We have the 316 Stainless steel version available, completely corrosion resistant.
This costs £1500
We have the S355 construction steel version available, which will need painting, dipping, or coating, to prevent corrosion.
This costs £850
£850-£1500
While the Mk3 MR2 is a relatively rust-free car, the rear subframes are very susceptible to corrosion, and needing to replace them is relatively common.
Another issue with these subframes is they are made of very thin metal and are somewhat flexible when used hard, especially with large power increases and much grippier than factory tyres.
Any subframe flex will cause the steering geometry to change as 4 of the 6 rear arms are mounted to the subframe, which is generally the cause for any traction and handling issues people have, including "Bump steer" and many instability issues under hard acceleration.
While many spend a great deal of time and effort with relatively ineffective braces and other modifications to try and solve this, our solution to both of these factors is our own design rear subframe, which is a direct replacement for the OEM item, but is massively stronger, fantastic looking, and some would say "over-engineered".
This subframe is proven to solve any handling and stability issues by preventing the geometry from changing from the fantastic factory setup by eliminating flex.
We have TWO versions available, the same design, weight, and strength, but two different materials.
We have the 316 Stainless steel version available, completely corrosion resistant.
This costs £1500
We have the S355 construction steel version available, which will need painting, dipping, or coating, to prevent corrosion.
This costs £850
SO HOW DO YOU FIT IT ALL?" We hear you ask? Well to solve that problem, we made THIS whole YouTube series, incredibly detailed, showing you the full swap, from start to finish. Although if you wish, we offer a Drive-In Drive-Out swap too, details of which you can find if you scroll down on this page...
See below for the full step by step DIY 1.8T swap video guide...
HERE!
See below for the full step by step DIY 1.8T swap video guide...
HERE!
DRIVE-IN DRIVE-OUT CONVERSIONS
While we are primarily a manufacturing and development business, ie we create these parts to supply to you, and they're developed in a way that makes them a very easy DIY conversion for a relatively competent home mechanic, we do get requests for drive-in drive-out conversions, and can indeed do so.
The basic cost for a 1.8T swap costs £2000 in labour, plus the above parts costs (with Sump and Subframes are optional extras) with you supplying your chosen donor engine, transmission, engine wiring loom, and so on. This cost also doesn't include purchasing the chargecooler pump/radiator setup, or battery relocation parts (see below for full links and info on these), CVs, and other minor recommended parts such as suitable fluids, fresh spark plugs/coils, oil breather system, lambda sensor, and so on.
Time to completion is generally 2-3 weeks for a basic 1.8T swap.
We fit all the below vital parts as part of the above labour charge, and all of the recommended parts we can fit at the same time as the swap, some for no extra charge, some for a small extra charge.
We do have a waiting list as you can imagine, which currently is up to a few months, but can vary a lot depending on demand.
ADDITIONAL PARTS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE CAR (DIY OR DRIVE-IN DRIVE-OUT)
While we produce and sell a hugely comprehensive list of parts to complete this swap, understandably there's some off-shelf parts also needed, mostly factory Toyota or VAG, some aftermarket, but to make this swap as affordable as possible, we don't try and sell you these as 'custom' to try and make a profit like most swap kits/sellers do, we will simply tell you what they are so you can purchase them yourself and save money...
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION/ETC-
Ok, this one is obvious, but you need a complete engine and transmission! We don't supply these, but many of our customers use S63 VAG SPARES to source theirs, as they are trustworthy, knowledgeable, and well priced at around £600-700. While technically almost any 1.8T can be used as all parts are interchangeable to some extent, for our 'off the shelf' swap parts you'd need what basically is the BAM (or BEA in the USA) setup, which is the larger MAF sensor, K04 Turbo and manifold, Inlet manifold with throttle facing the correct way for our swap, VVT, and so on. While it can all be fitted to any base engine, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a complete BAM in the first place.
You need the engine, complete with MAF, other sensors, and both sides of the wiring loom that come from the ECU.
Please be aware that the similar APX/AMU engine setup is NOT the same, with an incorrect MAF sensor, no wideband Lambda, no VVT, and so on, so isn't a direct fit without those parts being changed.
For the gearbox, you need the 02M Quattro (not 2wd) gearbox, which is most commonly found on TT/S3s with the BAM engine, again making getting a complete setup often the cheaper and easier route.
WIDEBAND LAMBDA SENSOR-
As it's one of the most important sensors on the car, we really do not recommend using an old one, and our kits require the one with the Bosch part number 0 258 007 351. This isn't a BAM one, which has a shorter wire so doesn't fit as nicely, this is OEM from certain other 1.8T engine setups, and works perfectly with ours. Get a genuine Bosch one- Don't skimp out on important sensors!
CV JOINTS-
This setup requires bigger and stronger CVs, but again to keep it cost effective we use OEM ones that you can easily purchase for very little money. We personally recommend J&R CV Joints as they fit our setup perfectly and we have never had one fail even at 600bhp+ and wide sticky tyres.
You need...
2x Audi TT Quattro inner ones, link HERE
2x Toyota RAV4 outer ones, link HERE
BATTERY RELOCATION-
Due to the chargecooler being fitted in the OEM battery location, this swap requires the battery to be moved elsewhere. While there are countless options for locations, front, back, in-car, not to mention countless battery types, our personal choice, and the one we requite for our drive-in drive-out swaps, is a VARLEY RED TOP 25 racing battery and the associated mounting bracket for it. The battery costs around £170 and the bracket around £50 and is available from places such as Demon Tweeks or JJC Race And Rally, and can be found on their eBay shops or their websites. This mounts near the ECU in the rear luggage space, so is easy to access, safe, and has more than enough power for these cars.
CHARGECOOLER PUMP, RADIATOR, AND LINES-
While there's countless options out there, in our drive-in drive-out swaps we personally use the Bosch electric chargecooler pump, most commonly used in the Mk1 Ford Focus RS, Range Rover V8s, and others, though we actually use the uprated version by AVT in our kits, link HERE.
For the chargecooler radiator, we personally use this 660x170mm alloy rad, also from AVT, link HERE.
For the water lines, it couldn't be simpler, normal flexible 19mm ID coolant hose is what is used, and around 10m gives you enough with usually some to spare.
2WD GEARBOX OUTPUT FLANGE AND OIL SEALS-
For our swaps, while you require the Quattro gearbox, you need the shorter 2wd output flange to replace the longer one and the transfer case, neither are used on these swaps.
It's often said that you require flange part number 02M409356A, but NO, yes that will work, but it's usually very expensive. You simply need an offside (presuming RHD) one from any FWD 02M gearbox, so from any PD130/150 engine 1.9tdi VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda, a Seat Leon Cupra R, and so on. The part number varies, but is usually, 02M409356F. We've seen VW breakers sell these for £30 or so, but often a complete 1.9TDI 6 speed gearbox can be bought so much easier, and cheaply, at £50-70, that buying a complete box is the best way to do it. For drive-in drive-out swaps, we can source this flange if needed..
You need a new gearbox flange oil seal for the one side also- Part Number 02M409189, they are around £10 from any motorfactor.
Not VITAL but HIGHLY recommended parts!
Fresh fluids and filter for gearbox and engine (we can supply for drive-in drive-out if required).
Fresh cambelt, water pump, and tensioner.
Fresh starter motor and alternator (they are reliable, but we've seen a few engines come with faulty starters and alternators- They are often 20+ years old after all!).
Alloy crankcase oil breather elbow. The factory plastic one is usually very brittle with age, so replacing it with an alloy one is a very very wise move. Various people supply these, such as HERE.
A new oil level dipstick. These are prone to snapping with age, and literally cost as few pounds from any motor factor for these engines, so it would be crazy not to buy a new one!
Fresh spark plugs. Again, who knows how fresh the plugs in a used engine is, so for the sake of £15, as fresh set of NGK BKR7E plugs, correctly gapped, is a wise move.
Coil packs. The factory coilpacks are superb, but when they may be 20+ years old, maybe not, and aftermarket ones are often poor even from new. Luckily genuine Bosch or even APR uprated ones are only £35-45 each, so are a good idea.
Sensors in general are cheap and easy to get, so are never a bad idea to get fresh ones. Genuine Bosch ones are highly recommended, with the MAF, Lambda, MAP, and knock sensors especially vital to be the real deal for accurate readings.
And last, but certainly not least...!
Uprated anti-roll bars! These are a fantastic upgrade on any MR2, more important than uprated shocks and springs, but it's REALLY needed once you have 1.8T power and torque, as the new found engine performance makes a car on factory ARBs really feel like a boat, where the engine power doesn't match the chassis performance! Whiteline ARBs are cheap and simple to fit, so are a must have in our eyes.
While we are primarily a manufacturing and development business, ie we create these parts to supply to you, and they're developed in a way that makes them a very easy DIY conversion for a relatively competent home mechanic, we do get requests for drive-in drive-out conversions, and can indeed do so.
The basic cost for a 1.8T swap costs £2000 in labour, plus the above parts costs (with Sump and Subframes are optional extras) with you supplying your chosen donor engine, transmission, engine wiring loom, and so on. This cost also doesn't include purchasing the chargecooler pump/radiator setup, or battery relocation parts (see below for full links and info on these), CVs, and other minor recommended parts such as suitable fluids, fresh spark plugs/coils, oil breather system, lambda sensor, and so on.
Time to completion is generally 2-3 weeks for a basic 1.8T swap.
We fit all the below vital parts as part of the above labour charge, and all of the recommended parts we can fit at the same time as the swap, some for no extra charge, some for a small extra charge.
We do have a waiting list as you can imagine, which currently is up to a few months, but can vary a lot depending on demand.
ADDITIONAL PARTS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE CAR (DIY OR DRIVE-IN DRIVE-OUT)
While we produce and sell a hugely comprehensive list of parts to complete this swap, understandably there's some off-shelf parts also needed, mostly factory Toyota or VAG, some aftermarket, but to make this swap as affordable as possible, we don't try and sell you these as 'custom' to try and make a profit like most swap kits/sellers do, we will simply tell you what they are so you can purchase them yourself and save money...
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION/ETC-
Ok, this one is obvious, but you need a complete engine and transmission! We don't supply these, but many of our customers use S63 VAG SPARES to source theirs, as they are trustworthy, knowledgeable, and well priced at around £600-700. While technically almost any 1.8T can be used as all parts are interchangeable to some extent, for our 'off the shelf' swap parts you'd need what basically is the BAM (or BEA in the USA) setup, which is the larger MAF sensor, K04 Turbo and manifold, Inlet manifold with throttle facing the correct way for our swap, VVT, and so on. While it can all be fitted to any base engine, it's often easier and cheaper just to buy a complete BAM in the first place.
You need the engine, complete with MAF, other sensors, and both sides of the wiring loom that come from the ECU.
Please be aware that the similar APX/AMU engine setup is NOT the same, with an incorrect MAF sensor, no wideband Lambda, no VVT, and so on, so isn't a direct fit without those parts being changed.
For the gearbox, you need the 02M Quattro (not 2wd) gearbox, which is most commonly found on TT/S3s with the BAM engine, again making getting a complete setup often the cheaper and easier route.
WIDEBAND LAMBDA SENSOR-
As it's one of the most important sensors on the car, we really do not recommend using an old one, and our kits require the one with the Bosch part number 0 258 007 351. This isn't a BAM one, which has a shorter wire so doesn't fit as nicely, this is OEM from certain other 1.8T engine setups, and works perfectly with ours. Get a genuine Bosch one- Don't skimp out on important sensors!
CV JOINTS-
This setup requires bigger and stronger CVs, but again to keep it cost effective we use OEM ones that you can easily purchase for very little money. We personally recommend J&R CV Joints as they fit our setup perfectly and we have never had one fail even at 600bhp+ and wide sticky tyres.
You need...
2x Audi TT Quattro inner ones, link HERE
2x Toyota RAV4 outer ones, link HERE
BATTERY RELOCATION-
Due to the chargecooler being fitted in the OEM battery location, this swap requires the battery to be moved elsewhere. While there are countless options for locations, front, back, in-car, not to mention countless battery types, our personal choice, and the one we requite for our drive-in drive-out swaps, is a VARLEY RED TOP 25 racing battery and the associated mounting bracket for it. The battery costs around £170 and the bracket around £50 and is available from places such as Demon Tweeks or JJC Race And Rally, and can be found on their eBay shops or their websites. This mounts near the ECU in the rear luggage space, so is easy to access, safe, and has more than enough power for these cars.
CHARGECOOLER PUMP, RADIATOR, AND LINES-
While there's countless options out there, in our drive-in drive-out swaps we personally use the Bosch electric chargecooler pump, most commonly used in the Mk1 Ford Focus RS, Range Rover V8s, and others, though we actually use the uprated version by AVT in our kits, link HERE.
For the chargecooler radiator, we personally use this 660x170mm alloy rad, also from AVT, link HERE.
For the water lines, it couldn't be simpler, normal flexible 19mm ID coolant hose is what is used, and around 10m gives you enough with usually some to spare.
2WD GEARBOX OUTPUT FLANGE AND OIL SEALS-
For our swaps, while you require the Quattro gearbox, you need the shorter 2wd output flange to replace the longer one and the transfer case, neither are used on these swaps.
It's often said that you require flange part number 02M409356A, but NO, yes that will work, but it's usually very expensive. You simply need an offside (presuming RHD) one from any FWD 02M gearbox, so from any PD130/150 engine 1.9tdi VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda, a Seat Leon Cupra R, and so on. The part number varies, but is usually, 02M409356F. We've seen VW breakers sell these for £30 or so, but often a complete 1.9TDI 6 speed gearbox can be bought so much easier, and cheaply, at £50-70, that buying a complete box is the best way to do it. For drive-in drive-out swaps, we can source this flange if needed..
You need a new gearbox flange oil seal for the one side also- Part Number 02M409189, they are around £10 from any motorfactor.
Not VITAL but HIGHLY recommended parts!
Fresh fluids and filter for gearbox and engine (we can supply for drive-in drive-out if required).
Fresh cambelt, water pump, and tensioner.
Fresh starter motor and alternator (they are reliable, but we've seen a few engines come with faulty starters and alternators- They are often 20+ years old after all!).
Alloy crankcase oil breather elbow. The factory plastic one is usually very brittle with age, so replacing it with an alloy one is a very very wise move. Various people supply these, such as HERE.
A new oil level dipstick. These are prone to snapping with age, and literally cost as few pounds from any motor factor for these engines, so it would be crazy not to buy a new one!
Fresh spark plugs. Again, who knows how fresh the plugs in a used engine is, so for the sake of £15, as fresh set of NGK BKR7E plugs, correctly gapped, is a wise move.
Coil packs. The factory coilpacks are superb, but when they may be 20+ years old, maybe not, and aftermarket ones are often poor even from new. Luckily genuine Bosch or even APR uprated ones are only £35-45 each, so are a good idea.
Sensors in general are cheap and easy to get, so are never a bad idea to get fresh ones. Genuine Bosch ones are highly recommended, with the MAF, Lambda, MAP, and knock sensors especially vital to be the real deal for accurate readings.
And last, but certainly not least...!
Uprated anti-roll bars! These are a fantastic upgrade on any MR2, more important than uprated shocks and springs, but it's REALLY needed once you have 1.8T power and torque, as the new found engine performance makes a car on factory ARBs really feel like a boat, where the engine power doesn't match the chassis performance! Whiteline ARBs are cheap and simple to fit, so are a must have in our eyes.